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Examples
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And now for another phase of the physics of surf-riding.
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Such a bottom is that off the beach of Waikiki, and it produces a splendid surf-riding surf.
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The whole method of surf-riding and surf-fighting, I learned, is one of non-resistance.
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It was my second day at surf-riding, and I was quite proud of myself.
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And that is how it came about that I tackled surf-riding.
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The person who wants to learn surf-riding must be a strong swimmer, and must be used to going under the water.
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Heading for Australia, he had stopped off for a week to find out if there were any thrills in surf-riding, and he had become wedded to it.
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His mind drifted to a surf-riding party at Hong Kong with Billy and Jo Parkinson and a dark girl that he might have married, but didn't.
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But the more I see of them the more impressed I am with their carelessness and love of pleasure, their lack of ambition and a sense of responsibility, and the time which they spend in doing nothing but talking and singing as they bask in the sun, though spasmodically and under excitement they are capable of tremendous exertions in canoeing, surf-riding, and lassoing cattle.
The Hawaiian Archipelago Isabella Lucy 2004
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The man who wants to learn surf-riding must be a strong swimmer, and he must be used to going under the water.
Chapter 6 1913
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